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DERMOT TIPPINS account of his trip to Aden in April 2007
Aden/Sanaa April 2007
Bronwen Reynolds, Sheila Thoy (Moran), Kathleen Wooler (Moran) and Dermot Tippins
31st March
We all met up at Heathrow Terminal 2 on the afternoon of 31stMarch, a happy band of 4 looking forward to our trip back to our “childhood home” and the many fond memories of times past. We collected our tickets and checked in.
We departed Heathrow at 19.52 just a few minutes behind the scheduled take off time. The plane was full and the flight uneventful.
Landed in Sana’a in the early hours and all but about 30 to 40 passengers disembarked. A few new passengers joined the flight. We had a delay then as the back door of the plane refused to close! However after the engineers worked on it for about an hour we were airborne again.
We landed in Aden on 1stApril at 07.30, only 30 minutes behind schedule. So, all in all a good flight.
DAY 1 Sunday 1st April
Collected at the airport by the Sheraton courtesy car and taken to the hotel. Checked in, had breakfast, collected our room keys and unpacked. After a rest we all met up again just before 12.00. We had arranged for our car and driver to collect us for 12.00.
We met our driver Abdullah, a more pleasant and obliging man you could not meet. We had a super time for our stay and Abdullah made it all the more possible.
The plan for our first afternoon in Aden was to just tour all of the places we knew and remembered and put it all back fresh in our minds. So off we went on a sight seeing tour to Aden City, Steamer Point, the Crescent Hotel, Maala, Little Aden, Bandar Sheikh, Silent Valley, Bir Foukum, the Refinery, the BP Club, the Hospital, just past the Hospital we saw where the new cable car from Observation Hill to Shark Island is under construction. Then on to Ghadir, and a quick stop outside each of the houses where we lived, then we tried to get to the foreshore where the oil tankers tie up but to no avail its off limits. So on to Sheikh Othman then Khormaksar and on to Crater.
Finally back to the hotel for a swim a rest and shower up before dinner in the hotel.
The day had proved really worthwhile as it brought to life all of our memories and as we reminisced each one would add another little bit of detail to the memories and the colour of times past came more vividly to life.
A note on the hotel, the food was excellent, buffet style at both breakfast and dinner, plenty of choice and plenty of it. Rooms were comfortable and all of the public areas of the hotel were excellent. The hotel has its own pool and is also on the beach so an excellent choice of location for our stay.
DAY 2 Monday 2nd April
Today we intended to spend more time at each of the places we would visit and our first stop was in Maala for money changing, all of the exchange shops give the same rate so any one will do, also they were giving a good rate.
Then on to Bir Foukum for a tour around where the BP Housing complex was situated. All this area is now quite built up and it was not easy to recognise any of the original houses. Next we went to the Silent Valley Military Cemetery where we spent some time. Silent Valley is well named tucked in at the foot of the mountains, quiet and peaceful with only the sound of the breeze to break the silence.
Then to the BP club where we had a great time wandering about both inside and outside the club and down on the beach. The Club and the surrounding areas are the same as they were so long ago with the club building, the stage and patio area, the children’s playground, the way down to the beach, the changing rooms, the sun shades and even the kiosk that used to sell drinks and sweets. The kiosk is looking a bit the worse for wear but otherwise it is, as you would remember it. It really brings the memories flooding back and it is so difficult to imagine all of the years that have passed since we were there enjoying life on the beach!
While we were there a school tour with several buses of children from Lahedg were visiting and we had great fun with the kids who regarded us as a great novelty! A real delight for them was having their photo taken on a digital camera and being able to see the photo immediately.
Next on the plan was a refreshment stop at the hotel in Ghadir. But on our way to the hotel we first detoured into Al Kaisa village, It has grown so much with so many buildings scattered everywhere that in now looks entirely different and the village that it was is not recognisable any more.
Then to the hotel in Ghadir where we bought cokes and biscuits and had a rest outside the hotel! The hotel is a more recent construction and rather than call it a hotel it would be better to give it the Arabic name of a funduq which I think better describes its business style. Not recommended as a place to book into!!
Next to the Community Centre where we had a good look around and got speaking with the caretaker people who explained that it is still used occasionally as a location for employees of the refinery to hold events such as weddings or other family celebrations. They can rent it out for a nominal fee and provide their own food etc. They were delighted to show us around and talk to us about the time we were there and pleased that we had returned to Aden.
In conversation with one of the caretakers he gave us a phone number to contact his brother who had a boat in Bir Foukum. He said that we could hire the boat to take us out around the coast to see Bandar Sheik and Ghadir from the sea, as this was something we wanted to do before leaving Aden.
Then it was on to the hospital where we wanted to make contact with some friends of the Morans. Although Huda the lady in question had gone off duty she returned to the hospital when contacted and insisted that we return with her to visit her home which was next door to where the Morans used to live. Her family was delighted to meet us and were both thrilled and emotional that we had looked them up after so long apart.
When we were due to leave Huda came with us to see if she could get us access into Bronwen’s house. First stop was at my old home and as is happening with some of the houses in Ghadir they are being “remodelled” or “replaced” and mine is one that falls into the replaced category. I was glad that I had seen it on my last visit in 2000 as it had now been completely demolished. All that is standing is the carport but we were informed that, as the army now owns it they would probably build a new big house on the site.
On then to Bronwen’s house and although Huda spoke with the current owners and asked if we could get in we were not allowed, so we had to make do with a peek through the garden door.
At that point we took Huda home and she insisted that we were to come back again before leaving Aden to have a meal with the family. Huda also said that she would arrange to get access to the Moran home.
Next we parked the car on the sea front at Marina Drive and took time to admire the view while reminiscing and identifying houses where we remembered friends had lived.
On our way back to the hotel we made a determined attempt to find the Isthmus school but that area of Khormaksar has changed so much that we were left guessing as to the location, so we decided to make further inquiries and return the next day. Dinner in the hotel.
DAY 3 Tuesday 3rd April
First stop to the Aden Mall Lulu Hypermarket for a look around. A modern style shopping mall with a reasonable selection of shops including a gold market section.
The perfume shop turned out to be a big hit and various purchases were made. Be aware that the shopping centre closes at approximately 12.45/13.00 for a few hours.
Armed with some new information on the possible location of the Isthmus school we set off again to try and find it. As best we could determine we felt it might have been where the British Consulate now stands. Unfortunately the Consulate was closed as it is getting a facelift so we were not able to make any inquiries. We felt that the Consulate and possibly one or two of the neighbouring buildings may have been the location. However this is only a best guess and in the absence of any further clues we could go no further on the Isthmus school.
Next was a visit to the Christian Cemetery in Maala where we strolled around looking at the inscriptions we recognised one which was for Fr. Camillus (Minozzi), the Catholic priest that was in Aden in our time.
Abdullah then took us to a local restaurant where we were to have lunch and this was an experience. In the main door to a large room filled with long tables full of men having lunch. A super atmosphere full with the noise of conversation and dishes and plates banging on the tables. The Head Waiter immediately approached and took us from the main dining room through a curtained door into a smaller room, more private but fully occupied, so through another curtained doorway and same again, and another curtained doorway and the same again, (only one of these rooms had women occupants). Then through the next door which had us back on the street about 2 doors down from where we had first entered the main room.
Around the corner and into another large room where just a few people were having lunch. A very quite and private dining room but lacking the atmosphere of the main dining room.
Much to the Head Waiter’s surprise we said that we wanted to eat in the main room, so all the way back. He then cleared part of a table and we were seated. Lunch was ordered and arrived and there was plenty of it.
Apart from in our group there were no other female occupants in this part of the restaurant. We were given plastic knives and forks our fellow dinners used their fingers. As I said plenty of atmosphere with the noise and chatter, a huge crowd, fast service with an army of waiters providing the service and a quick turnover of customers. Added to that we had a meal for five at a tiny price.
Then to the Yemen Airways office to confirm our flights and agree our flight times for the flight to Sana’a as the flight we were supposed to take had been cancelled. Local flights can get changed at short notice.
After that it was on to Crater for shopping! First to buy a selection “Yasser Scarfs” and some other presents to take home and then for the serious shopping it was on to the gold and silver shops. On the way back to the hotel we stopped off in the Aden Hotel where I had stayed in 2000 and had a beer.
Dinner this evening was in Maala in the Ching Sing Chinese restaurant. A veritable feast of Chinese food all for next to nothing in price, the cost of living is certainly something to envy. From there it was back to the hotel again.
DAY 4 Wednesday 4th April
Yesterdays shopping meant that our first stop was back to Maala to change some more money! As we were also looking for either paintings or prints of scenes of Aden we searched some local shops but to no avail.
The plan then was to go to Bir Foukum and take our intended boat trip and then visit back with Huda and family as had been agreed. Although we had not been able to get in touch with our contact from the Community Centre we knew that there were plenty of boats available and we felt confident that we could hire one at short notice.
On the road to Little Aden as we approached Hiswa we were caught up in the effects of a street demonstration by the residents of Hiswa who had used big rocks to block off both the Hiswa bypass and the road through the village. (Hiswa has been bypassed with a new road but you can still detour through the village on the old road and rejoin the bypass again). The good people of Hiswa were protesting at Government plans to demolish some of the fisherman’s houses to make way for further road works. The demonstration delayed us for over an hour until police arrived to clear the roadway. While this was an unexpected experience it was one that was worth experiencing.
The delay meant that our timetable was out of line and so a change in plans. The intended boat trip was cancelled and instead it was on to Ghadir and a final visit with Huda and family, the Morans neighbours, where they had a meal especially prepared for us. We were also given presents to mark our visit. It had been arranged by Huda that the Girls were allowed to visit their old home next door and meet the current owners. (I wasn’t allowed in, as there were only women present). They were given a “tour” of the house and noted that has had some changes had been made over the years that now includes keeping goats in the back garden!
Then on to the beach in front of Ghadir where we spent well over an hour on a long slow walk along the full length of the beach, paddling in the sea while soaking up the sun and our memories of days long gone.
Next it was back again to the BP club for a second visit to the Club and a long walk around the Club and the outside areas including the children’s playground. In the Club we met some people that were on their honeymoon and had come to meet up and stay with family and friends in Little Aden. We had a long chat with them and chewed Ghat.
After that it was on to the beach for another long nostalgic walk on the beach and the bund that protected the swimming area.
Next it was back to the hotel in Ghadir for more coke and then on to Crater for more gold and silver shopping, still no luck in finding any paintings or prints of views of Aden. Finally back to the hotel for dinner.
DAY 5 Thursday 5th April
Kathleen had come down with a tummy bug and decided that it would be better opt out of the activities and stay in the hotel for the day.
For the rest of us it is off to the Prince of Wales Port Terminal where we had a great look around and met some very interesting people who were delighted to chat with us and reminisce about old times. In the shop we bought jewellery and stamps. The terminal is still in use and visiting sea passengers come through the building.
On to the Crescent hotel for a coke, the main building of the hotel is currently closed for refurbishment but we were able to get in for a quick look around. We had our drinks in the back area of the hotel.
Then it was back to the money changers in Maala followed by a quick trip to Crater looking for pictures or prints of local scenes, no Joy. Next was lunch in a restaurant at the Khormaksar end of Maala.
Sheikh Othman was our next port of call and off we went for a tour of the city. Sheik Othman has now grown into very big city and is far bigger than Aden city.
In Sheikh Othman we passed by the old Gardens, the Jail which is still in operation and the old main street bustling with activity with its multitude of shops and market stalls. Abdulla pointed out the Ghat market to us, a huge market that was obviously doing a brisk trade.
Next it was back to Crater for more shopping where the Girls wanted to buy some local dresses and mushada scarfs. After that it was on to the spice shop to buy an assortment of cooking spices to bring home.
Then back to the hotel to check on Kathleen, the patient was improving but decided to stay put. As it was our last night the rest of us went on a final night drive to Little Aden, Bureika and Ghadir then it was back to the hotel.
Here we said our goodbyes to Abdullah and thanked him for his kindness to us over the week. His sense of humour and unfailing patience with us as we visited and revisited some places was much appreciated. We were sorry to be saying goodbye to him. A late dinner followed and then packing in preparation for our early morning departure the following morning.
DAY 6 Friday 6th April
An early breakfast followed by checkout and we were soon on our way to the airport in the Sheraton courtesy cars. A surprise awaited us at the airport, Abdullah had turned up to say goodbye and wish us a safe journey. It was typical of his kindness.
After a short flight we landed in Sana’a and were met by the drivers from the Taj Sheba Hotel. Check in was followed by a leisurely lunch as it being Friday most of the shops were closed and those that would open would not do so until 16.00.
The hotel is a short walk from the Old City of Sana’a so at about four we set off on a walk to see the Old City. The temperature in Sana’a is noticeably cooler than in Aden. We walked all through the Old City and while we saw it in great detail and could admire the unusual architecture unfortunately only a few shops were open. Then as if to prepare us for our trip home it started to rain. Light at first but quickly getting heavier. We got a taxi back to the hotel. Nothing much to do and bad weather meant we were confined to the hotel for dinner and a good nights sleep before our trip home next day. The Taj Sheba is an excellent location to stay in as it is only a few minutes walk from the beautiful old city of Sana’a a sight not to be missed.
DAY 7 Saturday 7th April
Breakfast and checkout and an early morning drive to Sana’a International Airport. Check in and the flight back to Heathrow all on time and uneventful.
We had had a great trip, plenty of nostalgia, good company and plenty of laughs. We met some really nice people during our visit and everyone was welcoming and pleasant to us. They were delighted to see us in Aden and chat and talk with us about why we were visiting Aden and if they were old enough reminisce with us on their memories of those times.
Having been in Aden and Sana’a in 2000 I was delighted to see the improvement in the economy and the development that is taking place in both cities.
On behalf of the “Group” I hope that if you are interested in seeing Aden again that you will make the trip. It is a great experience to see it all, so much of it still as it was so long ago. We were always welcome, everyone was interested and wanted to chat with us and we really enjoyed ourselves. It brings all the memories flooding back.
If you want any further info please email me at dermot_tippins@vodafone.ie